Hi all.  I decided to share some thoughts re: the wah (and the potentiometer in it) with everyone to curb issues you may have experienced with the pot to date, or any that will eventually occur.

  • It is important to note/understand that ALL pots will (eventually) develop a “scratchy” sound.  They may require maintenance as soon as a few hours out of the box.
  • Usually, this doesn’t mean the carbon track is damaged — but instead it means that there is a small amount of dust/debris that has built up on its surface –> therefore breaking the solid electrical connection that they are supposed to have –> therefore producing “staticy” sounds when using your wah.
  • As the wah/pot is used, the wiper arm is being actuated against the carbon track.  This produces dust/debris.  Even the smallest amount of dust/debris caught between the track and the wiper arm can create a horrific scratchy sound.
  • Accordingly, the track & wiper assembly should be cleaned, and lubricated.  This will circumvent most pot noises each time you clean it.  You can do this several times over the course of many years before finally requiring an actual “replacement”.

I say this because often times customers purchase one of my pots to replace a (perceived) faulty one without realizing that all they need to do is clean their existing one.  I’ve had people ask me why I would share this info with the world if it = less sales for me.  My answer is simple: I am not making a living on selling potentiometers.  I build wahs, and make pickups. The pot is something that I put in all my wahs …regardless if the world wants to put them in their Vox/Crybaby/Clyde/RMC/Budda/etc..

Like I said above, they can be used for many years after they start to make noise, but they DO require maintenance on a semi regular basis.  It takes very little time to do a quick cleaning .  IF you want to get more in depth, you can fully disassemble the pot, and clean it from the inside out.  Anyways, you can easily clean your wah pot by ensuring that you blow out the dust that forms from use, and by cleaning/lubricating them with specific electronics grade formulas.

Method #1 (The Professional Answer):

  1. DeoxIT® D-Series D5 Spray, (5% solution)
  2. CAIG Laboratories DeoxIT FaderLube F5S-H6

Simply spray the inside of thepot with the D5 solution, allow it to try thoroughly; wick away as much moisture as you can by use of a paper towel, etc…

Then, hit it with a small amount of FaderLube (and shake it out if you can).  Actuate the pot, and you’ll be good to go.  Rinse and repeat as often as necessary.

Method #2 (The Home-brew Answer):

  1. CRC Brakleen 05089

Simply spray the inside of  the pot with the Brakleen, and allow it to try thoroughly; its’s important to note that I have specifically recommend Brakleen 05089 (Red Can) as a viable alternative, because it is formulated to be NONFLAMMABLE!   This specific formula is safe for use on most plastics.  It easily dissolves dust/dirt/debris/grease.  It is better for the environment because it contains no CFC’s. 

Method #1 IS what an audio professional would recommend:, but it IS FLAMMABLE, and much more costly. 

Side Note: I always suggest that any musician travel with a small bag of tools/goodies at all times.  (ie: string changes, on-the-fly loose input jacks, loose guitar tuners, etc.  At a minimum you should keep a small socket set w/ a ratchet, and a good screwdriver set on hand.  A small flashlight (for low light back stage areas) is also advised.  While you’re at it: throw a can of  whatever can you chose above into your gig bag.

As always, thank you for your continued business, fan-ship, trust, and support.  Without you this entire operation is useless.

MM